A fortune so tantalizingly close
Sam Bell sat on the verandah of his house in Angoram on Tobacco Road facing the Sepik River and he contemplated the future and the past. He had reason to be reflective as he was, just now, recovering from a rather virulent dose of clap thanks to the penicillin injections given by Jamie Ward, but life went on, and a man had to make a bob and the future offered interesting possibilities in this respect.
Angoram in the 1960s had its fair share of dreamers and schemers with little to sustain them but the hope of better things to come. Sam, who arrived in New Guinea shortly after the Second World War had put his hand to most things from Airways employee to gold mining and trading but never had he been so hopeful of making a fortune than he was just now.
When he first arrived in Angoram he could see that there was money in running a trade store and in buying crocodile skins, and with his partner, Bill Clayton, a pretty penny had been made. But Sam wanted big money and the events of the last couple of days held out the prospect of this.
A couple of weeks previously Sam had sent Carlos Ruiz, a mixed-race employee, to the Amboin area up the Karawari River to check out the kwila or ironwood stands. In this endeavour, his information was of little value. All he could really say was that he had seen the occasional kwila and that the people would cut them down and float them down the river to Angoram, but they wanted axes, saws and an outboard motor to do this as well as an exorbitant amount of money for each tree.
Sam thought to himself that Carlos was a bit of a useless bastard, he’d been up the river on good wages and this is all he can come back with. He knew that he was a bit of a piss-pot and he had become more so after some of those do-gooders had allowed him to become a member of the Angoram Club, as Sam said: “A man’s got to work with them I can’t see any reason why you have to relax with them.” These words of precaution were offered in the soft tones of Sam’s Scottish brogue and became more meaningful in observing the expressive Hemingway look-alike face of his.
But then life is full of surprises, for the good Carlos went on to reveal and show Sam something of earth-shattering importance. Sam, an inveterate art fancier, was all ears after Carlos showed him a piece of woodcarving he had collected while in the upper reaches of the Karawari River.
Carlos could detect that Sam was not too impressed with what he had to tell him about the timber and its availability. As an afterthought he said: “Sam, I did get as far up the river as Inyai, ol yangpela there kept on talking about some caves they wanted to show me. I could tell that the old blokes were not too keen to show me where these caves were. This made me think that there might be something good to see there. Well, I did go to the caves and all I saw was a whole lot of old junky carvings. I bought this one for $10 from the young blokes. A bit of rubbish as far as I’m concerned but I thought you might be interested.”
To say that Sam might be interested was the understatement of the century. What Carlos produced was a wooden carved female figure standing at about 5 1/2 feet and made, as far as Sam could tell, from ironwood. The figure was in the frontal position with upraised arms and the head was crowned with a spiked elevated adornment. Sam, who had been collecting on the river for years, had never seen anything quite like it. It appeared to be very old with an indefinable quality about it.
An appreciation of so called primitive art is an intangible quality that grows on some expatriates without them necessarily being very knowledgeable about the culture that produces such art. What is the difference between a curio and a piece of carving that radiates and gleams to the aware? Sam knew, but could probably not give you an answer. In his years on the Sepik River, Sam had seen piles of good and bad carvings and he had a very good idea what was an artifact and what was just fairly good carving. He had no doubt that what he was looking at now was important aesthetically and financially. Or in Sam’s terminology, “there’s a bob to be made here.”
He knew he had to conceal and disguise from Carlos how impressed he was with the carving. Otherwise, the whole town would hear about it and what was left in the Karawari would be collected by others. He thought to himself, “that bloody Pietro will be up there like a shot and as for that German doctor this would be just the excuse he needs to go on a medical patrol up the river and get as many carvings as he can.” John Pietro was a trader very often in competition with Sam for a good carving. Jan Speer, the German doctor, Sam accused him of building up his own museum and selling artefacts in Europe, all at government expense by collecting on so- called medical patrols.
If there were more like this piece, Sam thought to himself, then I’ve struck it. He could talk of gold, heavy yellow gold. Of course, the very thing he intended not to do was talk about it. He would imply to Bill Clayton, his business partner that he was on a good thing.
“OK Carlos here’s the $10 for this piece and what you’ve found out about timber in the Karawari could be useful. I think I might check it out for myself in the next few days.” He got the carving back to his house pronto, and got his houseboy to brew a very strong pot of coffee. While drinking, he reflected, and tried to suppress his excitement and he decided to share and show Bill Clayton the carving. After all, Bill and I are partners, he figured. But the truth was that he couldn’t help but tell someone of what he considered his good fortune.
Bill when he saw the piece was equally blown away by it. Together they made plans to get up the Karawari River as soon as possible. “We’ll not take that blabbermouth, Carlos, with us.” The lure of gold was now firmly planted in Sam’s psyche and he saw his El Dorado on the horizon. “Bill, we’ve got to get to those caves as soon as possible.”
Sam and Bill made to the caves. Up the Karawari past Amboin to the headwaters of the Arfundi River to Inyai and Awim village territory and beyond to limestone escarpments, where caves were discovered full of the most extraordinary artifacts. Sam nearly had a heart attack on the trip as the going was so hard; tramping through swamps and bush tracks to finally reach the treasure.
The pieces consisted of hooks in a complex style and female figures like the one that Carlos had shown Sam. Sam managed to persuade the locals to sell ten pieces to them and they were up and out of there as soon as they could leave. When they arrived back in Angoram Sam had no trouble getting an export permit from the Assistant District Commissioner.
He decided he would send them off to a contact he had in the Museum of Primitive Art in New York, merely to get them priced. This is what was done but alas, alas, they never got to New York. According to Sam, “some rotten bastard in Madang nicked the lot of them.” For years after Sam and Bill scanned museum catalogues and displays and talked to private collectors, but had no success in tracing their pieces. All that Sam knew was that similar pieces had come on the market and were conservatively priced in the hundreds of thousands of dollars.
Sam and other collectors did subsequently collect from the caves much to their personal profit. But the ones that were taken were always a source of grief to Sam.
Free online copy of Sepik Blu Longpela Muruk!
Just send me your email address in ‘comment’ and I’ll send you an online copy.
More Priceless Pieces From The Sir Ernest Spender Collection
The Sir Ernest Spender Collection
The readers of Sepik Blu Longpela Muruk will remember that Ernest was recovering from quintuple heart bypass surgery and was still at Findhorn. In his search for physical well-being, he was exploring body harmony, energy medicine and meditation.
Yesterday I received a letter from him enclosing photos of part of his Sepik collection of artifacts. He apologized for the poor quality of the snaps but he just wanted to remind me that the Sepik remained for ever an important part of his life.
Well to make a long story short it appears that he had a complete recovery from his surgery and reengaged fully with his New-Age incarnational spirituality and lecturing on non-physicial entities. Also he developed a herbal remedy that proved to be a great curative antidote to many modern aliments. With his herbal treatments he attracted many people from all classes of society. One of his patients, a member of the Royal Family, was completely cured of deep depression and suicidal tendencies and restored to excellent health. In appreciation of this Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II created him Knight Commander, Order of the British Empire (KBE). In honour of his investiture his old school, Charterhouse, had a celebratory dinner for him at the School.
Ernest wanted to be remembered to all his old friends from PNG. He did hint to me of some romantic association with a “dear friend”.
Anzac Day in Angoram
A great day to get ‘as pissed as a parrot’ and play two-up! Bluey Jones
A number of Angoram residents needed little excuse to wipe themselves out with booze but Anzac Day seemed to make this state something of a patriotic duty. There were still a fair number of returned servicemen among the expatriates, and the locals boasted a number of decorated people who had served with allies during the Second World War. This created a sense of bonhomie between the races. It did not mean that many locals were asked to the expatriates’ club for drinks, but at the newly formed Ex-Service Club all races were welcomed on Anzac Day.
The day started with a march around the town led by the local constabulary with Harry Payne taking the salute, and the last post played by a policeman. After the ceremony the expatriate ex-diggers proceeded to the New Guineans’ Ex-Service Club to which they had donated ten cartons of beer.
Allen Warburton, wearing his campaign medals and ribbons, was seen speaking to Pius Naiga, who was wearing his Military Medal. Pius had distinguished himself under fire by single-handedly taking out a Japanese machine-gun post during the famous battle of Shaggy Ridge. It transpired that Allen had also been at Shaggy Ridge and this probably explained why Allen always treated Pius with extreme courtesy. If Pius had dealings with the Sub-District Office, Allen in his capacity as Sub-District Clerk was always most helpful. He also employed Pius’s son and his wife as domestics.
The camaraderie of old soldiers caused Allen to forget any racial prejudice that may have been part of his personality when dealing with other New Guineans. But to be fair to Allen, his attitude towards, in his term, “the natives” ran far deeper than mere prejudice. He was courteous towards everyone, but he considered Anglo-Saxons a superior race and the legitimate rulers of native people. For Allen, being a white man carried the obligation of noblesse oblige. He may have been a racist but he was also a gentleman.
Pius Naiga gave a speech in Pidgin:
Gutpela samting long Masta Warburton, na ol arapela man bung wantaim bilong mipela. Taim bilong pait, Japan liak rausim ol Australia mi helpim ami bilong Australia
Nogut Australia lusim Nu Gini, Australia mama papa bilong mipela.
Tenkyu tru, em tasol!
It is good that Master Warburton and others are here with us.
During the War when the Japanese wanted to drive the Australians out, I helped the Australian Army. It would not be good if Australia leaves New Guinea, as Australia is our mother and father. Thank you sincerely, that is all.
Allen answered:
Ol Australia save wok bilong Nu Gini man long taim bilong pait. Taim soldia bagarap Nu Gini man karim long haus sik, nau helpim planti man.
Lik lik tok tasol, tenkyu tru
All Australians know about how New Guineans helped wounded soldiers and carried them to the hospitals during the War. This was truly very good service. This is only a short talk, but thank you!
Allen proposed a toast to the Queen: Salut long Kwin Salute the Queen.
The whites then proceeded to the club where a two-up game was in full swing. Jim Andrews, the primary school teacher, a Korean War Veteran, was well charged up and in exceptional form. Hundreds of dollars were changing hands. Geoff Sheppard seemed to be on a winning streak and even Fr Bert Brill was in the club looking on. Bill Clayton was in the corner drinking a beer after winning two hundred dollars and was in earnest conversation with Elizabeth Beven, a beautiful mixed-race girl on a visit from Wewak and staying with Carlos Ruiz’s family.
Sam Bell said to James Ward: “Bill wants to be careful over there, she’s gaol bait.”
The question of the age of the girls and women who formed a connection with some of the more licentious, intemperate expatriates at Angoram was a perennial topic of discussion. There had been something of a scandal some years before when an old reprobate had been furtively flown out of the town to avoid legal charges associated with underage girls.
James said to Sam: “Half his luck, she looks old enough to me.”
Any discussion of this nature would have been considered inappropriate: Anzac Day was for present and past diggers, to be celebrated with soldierly talk, two-up and booze. In the words of Des Murray, European Medical Assistant and returned soldier: “Mate, on this day we don’t breach the protocol.” If the protocol dictated two-up, booze and reminiscences of comradeship, the day fully lived up to it in the sanctified confines of the club.
It may have been something of a patriotic duty that caused Elizabeth Beven and Bill Clayton to leave sometime before the festivities concluded at the club, but by the look in their eyes they had other concerns.
The following morning Des Murray showed signs of a gigantic hangover and was full of praise for the dignified way things had gone. He concluded that any illness he might now feel was “due to the eating of green bananas.”
Bill Clayton by his look the next morning obviously had no trouble with green bananas. In fact he had a bounce in his step and a glint in his eye and Elizabeth Beven looked as beautiful as ever, as Bill saw her off on the plane to Wewak.
Harry Payne looked none the worse for wear and he informed Allen Warburton that he was pleased with the way things had gone: “Law and order was maintained and the flag was clearly shown to the locals.” Warburton responded with a nod and a grunt. Warburton considered Payne a pain in the neck, though he would never say it.
The big news in the office was the expected arrival of John MacGregor on transfer from Dreikikir. He was to be second in command to Payne on special duties in the area of political education. Payne said: “I ran into MacGregor in the Gulf District and if he thinks he’s going to be running his own show, he’s got another thought coming.”
“From what I hear, Jock MacGregor is a thorough gentleman,” responded Warburton.
“When I want your opinion I’ll ask for it.” Payne snapped. Warburton realised that the office atmosphere was charged and ready for business as usual.
Excerpt from Sepik Blu Longpela Muruk
Progressive and reactionary mix, do opposites attract?
Rachael and Andrew Mason resided in an inner city Sydney suburb and to all intents and purposes lived in matrimonal bliss to the wonderment of Rachael’s many friends.
Rachael was at the forefront of most progressive social issues from saving the Aborigines to saving the whales. Andrew on the other hand spent most of his time, since retirement from paid employment, in front of his computer or walking around the house muttering about: “the spirituality of indigenous” and the “power of Islam”. To the superficial observer this might be interpreted to mean that Andrew in some ways identified with Aborigines and Muslims in Australian society. An impression that would be contradictory, to say the least. Andrew’s only real exposure to Aborigines had been to inner city types mainly around Redfern. For the most part he considered these to be anything but spiritual. The only hunters and gatherers among them that he could see were those lurking around Redfern Station intent on snatching bags from unsuspecting passersby or poor ravished individuals begging for “spare change”. As regards Muslims he did not know too many apart from the young Lebanese Australians he saw misbehaving on the trains. On a philosophical level he considered Islam a rather misinformed theological and spiritual way of life that if unchecked could undermine Western Christian values. Of things historical and political he whole heartily agreed with George MacDonald Fraser that the British Empire was “the greatest thing that ever happened to an undeserving world”.
Rachael practically gave up on trying to change Andrew’s views, however, she did point out to him the family values of Aboriginal people and the beauty of Islamic art but this was only occasionally as it lead to futile arguments. Instead she got on with her life of involvement, fighting for various causes. Her social action in the fields of indigenous and multicultural affairs and in battles for social justice in general were recognized by the Australian Government with the award of the Order of Australia Medal.
Rachael and Andrew remained practising Catholics. In later life Andrew still attended Mass on Sundays and kept to most of the rules. He often asked himself if he still believed in it all. Certainly questions of transubstantiation became meaningless for him in later life but he still occasionally went to confession and usually confessed sins of illicit sexual desire, not of action, as there no longer remained much physical sexual ability in him. He did often say that Catholicism had ruined his sex life. For the last years of his married life to Rachael the marriage bed had been given up. They both seemed content enough with this. Andrew liked to say that in his own bed he could fart with impunity. Rachael’s religious practice did not put much faith in doctrine but she strongly related a love of God to a love of humankind.
In his seventies Andrew developed a chronic heart condition. His health became so bad that he was rushed to hospital for bypass surgery. Unfortunately he expired on the operating table.
Rachael was quite devasted with Andrew’s sudden death but she was cheered up with the provisions of Andrew’s will: Andrew had left the bulk of his estate to her but he had also left money so that the services of an Aboriginal elder and an Islamic iman could be employed at his funeral. He said he wanted the Aboriginal elder to perform a smoking ceremony and the iman to read Muslim prayers for the dead.
Rachael found that she had no trouble getting an elder but it proved impossible to get an iman. Apparently, “in the Quran, God prohibits all believers from offering pryers for disbelievers or idol worshippers regardless of whether they are dead or alive.” She suspected that Andrew would have known this and his request would have appealed to his sense of humour.
Rachael arranged a traditional Catholic funeral with the smoking ceremony and to replace the Muslim prayers she insisted that only sausages, mash and green peas with sao biscuits and tea be served at the wake. Andrew, she thought, would have liked this as food had always been a bone of contention in their marriage. She always liked exotic garlic and ginger laced food while Andrew’s liking was for tradional Aussie/English food.
In a sense the last laugh was with Rachael and Andrew would have liked that!









